19990971 Ver 1_Mitigation Site Visit_20091203

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North Carolina Department of Environment and Natural Resources
Division of Water Quality
Beverly Eaves Perdue Coleen H. Sullins Dee Freeman
Governor Director Secretary
December 3, 2009
DWQ # 19990971
Watauga County
Mr. Ren Worley, Maintenance Director
Deerfield Ridge
287 Bamboo Road
Boone, NC 28607
Subject Property: Wetland and stream mitigation for Deerfield Ridge (formerly Kerner Ridge)
Re: Site visit for EPA Program Development,-Grant,: Review of mitigation projects by DWQ
Dear Mr. Worley:
As part of a Wetland Program Development Grant from the US Environmental Protection Agency, the
Division of Water Quality (DWQ) 401 Oversight and Express Review Permitting Unit is conducting a
statewide evaluation of compensatory stream and wetland mitigation success. Tammy Hill and Eric Kulz
from this Unit conducted a site visit at the above-referenced mitigation project on July 24, 2009. Our
comments are as follows:
The project appeared to have been constructed according to the approved mitigation plan and to be
performing the expected ecological functions. The 401 Certification requirement for long-term protection
of the mitigation parcel was being met. The only problem area noted at the site visit was a stream
meander that was moving closer to the parking area on the left side of the main building. Eventually this
stream migration could threaten the integrity of the pavement. We recommend that woody vegetation be
used to stabilize the stream in its present location. Live stakes of tag alder (Alnus serrulata), black willow
(Salix nigra), and/or silky dogwood (Cornus amomum) would be appropriate for this purpose.
During our discussions at the site visit, you indicated that you would like to add some flowering plants to
the wetland areas to increase color and interest. We have attached several documents describing native
plant species that would be appropriate in a wetland setting in your area. When you have selected plants
for your site, please submit your planting list to this office for review prior to planting.
We greatly appreciate your cooperation with our evaluation and your continued stewardship of the
mitigation project at Deerfield Ridge. Please contact Tammy Hill or Eric Kulz at [phone] if you
have any questions regarding our comments or the Mitigation review project. We look forward to
working with you toward the continued supoess of the stream and wetland system around your facility.
401 Oversight/Express Review Permitting Unit
1650 Mail Service Center, Raleigh, North Carolina 27699-1650
Location: 2321 Crabtree Blvd., Raleigh, North Carolina 27604
Phone: [phone] FAX: [phone]
Internet: http://h2o.enr,state.nc,us/ncwetlands/
NorthCarolina
?aturallry
An Equal Opportunity 1 Affirmative Action Employer
i
T
Deerfield Ridge
Page 2 of 2
12/3/2009
Sincerely,
Cyndi B. Karoly, Program Manager
401 Oversight and Express Review Program
cc: File Copy (Tammy Hill)
cc (w/out attachments):
Sue Homewood, N.C. Division of Water Quality, Winston-Salem Regional Office
Tasha Alexander, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Asheville Field Office
i
Wetland plants with showy flowers (examples for the NC mountains):
• Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) - medium height plant with a stalk full of red
flowers
Q Swamp milkweed or butterflyweed (Asclepias incarnata or Asclepias tuberosa)
- medium to tall plant with large clumps of pink or orange flowers
e) Marsh hibiscus I rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos) - tall plant with large
white-pink flowers
• Swamp iris or blue flag iris (Iris versicolor or Iris virginica) - small to medium
plants with purple-blue iris flowers
• Jewelweed or pale touch-me not (Impatiens capensis or Impatiens pallida) -
medium shrubby plants with lots of green foliage and small orange or yellow
flowers
• Blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica) -.tall plant with a stalk of blue-purple flowers
• Scarlet bee balm (Monarda didyma) - medium shrubby plant with bright red
flowers
Q Joe-pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum or Eupatorium fistulosum) - tall plant
with clumps of pink-purple blooms - not as showy as other flowers, but blooms in
the fall when others are fading
Notes:
• The list contains several species recommended for constructed wetlands in the
NC mountains, but it is not an exhaustive list. Nurseries specializing in local
native plants are generally good sources of information about the species best
suited to a specific location.,.,,
• The Daniel Boone Native Gardens (near downtown Boone, NC) hosts many of
these and other wetland species. Their bloom calendar is attached in case you
would like to see some of these flowers prior to planting at your site.
• DWQ prefers the use of native species in restored wetland planting plans. Native
species have the greatest likelihood for survival, success, and community
balance without active management. In combination with appropriate hydrologic
restoration, native plants provide the best opportunity for the wetland to again
become part of the surrounding ecosystem.
• Vegetation that is known to become invasive should not be planted in a restored
wetland.
Nurseries specializing in native and wetland plants:
Gardens of the Blue Ridge, Inc.
Rob Fletcher
PO Box 10, 9056 Wildflower, Lane,
Pineola, NC 28662
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
P '
Email: gardensblueridge(a)_boone.net
Website: http://www.gardensoftheblueridge.com/
Catalog: $2.00
Family owned business since 1892, specializing in growing native plants.
Mellow Marsh Farm
Sharon Day
1312 Woody Store Road
Siler City, NC 27344
Phone/Fax: [phone]
Email: mellowmarsh(amindspring.com'
r
Website: http://www.mellowmarshfarm.com/
Catalog: online plant list
Grow mostly native wetland plants, herbaceous and woody.
Note: This list is not all-inclusive. Feel free to consult other local resources and
suppliers.
Consulting company that works on wetland restoration proiects in Boone:
ENV-ECS, Inc.
3764 Rominger Rd.
Banner Elk, North Carolina 28604
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
John Vilas - john env-ecs.com
Note: This is the company that originally worked on the project at Kerner Ridge (now
Deerfield Ridge). There are many other environmental consulting companies that
provide restoration services in NC. Many of them could help you develop a planting
plan if you decide that you need additional assistance.
Plants for Rain Gardens
Recommended for Western North Carolina
Charlotte Glen, Urban Horticulture Agent,
North Carolina Cooperative Extension - New Hanover County Center
Soil conditions in rain gardens alternate between wet and dry, making them tough places
for many plants to grow. The following plants are adapted to these conditions, though
some plants will tolerate more moisture than others. Each plant is marked according to its
flooding tolerance, with 3's being tolerant of longer flooding, 2's only tolerating brief
flooding, and 1's indicate plants that tolerant extended drought once established.
All of these plants are native to the southeastern United States in wetland habitats and
most are readily available at local nurseries. Wetland plants can generally grow well in
moist or well-drained soils, whereas plants adapted to dry soils rarely survive in soggy
conditions. How wet a rain garden stays will vary considerably depending on the site
where it is installed. Rain gardens ereated'on sandy soils will rarely hold water for more
than a few hours. On these sites it is most important to choose plants for their drought
tolerance. Rain gardens created on loamy' or silty soils could pond water for 1-2 days (if
your site ponds water for more than 3 days, you should consider creating a wetland). On
these sites, choosing plants tolerant of extended flooding is critical to success.
Remember you are not limited to planting just within the excavated area! Extending
plantings around this area will help the rain garden to blend in with the overall landscape.
Any plants adapted to the site =4itions pan be used outside of the excavated area.
For more information on designing rain gardens and bioretention areas, refer to the
following NCSU publication: Designing Rain Gardens (Bioretention Areas), available
from your local NC Cooperative Extension office or online at:
http://legacy. ncsu. edu/classes-a/bae/`cont_ed/bioretention/lecture/design-rain.pdf
Large Trees (over 30' tall)
Deciduous
Red Maple (2) -Ater rubrum
River Birch (1,3) - Bepla nigra
Cherry birch (2) - Beiula lenta
Willows (3) - Salix species.
Bald cypress (1,3) - Taxodium dstichum
Sycamore (2) - Platanus occidentalis
Yellow buckeye (2) - Aesculus octandra
Persimmon (2) - Diospyr' os virginiana
Silverbell (1) - Halesia carolina
Blackgum (3) - Nyssa sylvdhca
Black cherry (2) - Prurius serotina
White basswood (1) - Til is heterophylla
Box Elder (3) - Acer negundo
Evergreen
Small Trees (under 30' tall)
Deciduous
Ironwood (1,3) - Carpinus caroliniana
Redbud (1,2) - Cercis canadensis
Fringe Tree (2) - Chionanthus virginicus
Washington Hawthorn (3) - Crataegus phaenopyrum
Umbrella Tree (2) - Magnolia tripetala
PawPaw (2) - Asimina triloba
Tag Alder (3) - Alnus serrulata
Serviceberry (2) - Amelanchier arborea
Pagoda Dogwood (1) - Corpus alternifolia
Witch-hazel (1) - Hamamelis virginiana
Silky Dogwood (3) -Cornus amomum
Evergreen
American Holly (1,2) - Ilex opaca
Sweetbay Magnolia (3) -,Magnolia virginiana

Shrubs
Deciduous
Chokeberry (1,3) -Aronia arbutifolia
Sweet Shrub (2) - Calycanthus floridus
Buttonbush (3) - Cephalanthus occidentalis
American Hazelnut (1) - Corylus americana
Strawberry Bush (2) - Euonymous americanus
Winterberry (3) - Ilex verticillata
Virginia Sweetspire (3) - Itea virginica
Spicebush (2) - Lindera benzion
Ninebark (2) - Physocarpus opulifolius
Common Elderberry (2) - Sambucus canadensis
Meadowsweet (3) - Spiraea latifolia
Hardhack (3) - Spiraea tomentosa
Swamp Azalea (3) Rhododendron viscosum
Swamp Rose (3) - Rosa palustris
Blueberry (1) - Vaccinium ashei
Arrow-wood (2) - Viburnum dentatum
Possumhaw (3) - Viburnum nudum
Evergreen
Native Brake-Cane (3) - Arundinaria gigantea
Carolina Rose (1) - Rosa carolina
Perennials
Blue Star (3) - Amsonia tabernaemontana
Lady Fern (2) - Athyrium felix femina
Swamp Milkweed (3) -Asclepias incarnata
Butterflyweed (1) - Asclepius luberosa
False Indigo (1,2) - Baptisia species
Turtlehead (3) - Chelone glabra
Green and Gold (2) -`Chrysongonum virginianum
Mouse Ear Coreopsis or Lobed Tickseed (2) - Coreopsis auriculata
Lanceleaf Tickseed (1,2) - Coreopsis lanceolata
Rose Mallow (3) - Hibiscus moscheulos
Texas Star (3) - Hibiscus coccineus
Jewelweed (3) -- Impatiens cupensis
Swamp Iris (3) -Iris versicolor
Blue Flag Iris (3) -- Iris virginica
Gayfeather (2) - Liatris spicata
Cardinal Flower.(3) - Lobelia curclinalis
Cinnamon Fern (3) - Osmunda cinnamomea
Royal Fern (3.) - Osmunda regalis
Garden Phlox (2) -Phlox paniculata
Moss Pinks (1,2) - Phlox subulata
Pickerelweed (3) -Pontedara cordata
Rudbeckia (1,2) - Rudbeckia fulgida
Cutleaf Coneflower (3) - Rudbeckia laciniata
Goldenrod (3) - Solidago rugosa
Stoke's Aster (2) - Stokesia laevis
Ironweed (3) - vernonia novaboracensis
Ornamental Grasses
River Oats (1,3) - Chasmar?thium latifolium
Panic Grass (1,3).-Panicum virgatum
Indiangrass (1,2) - Sorghz strum nutans
Sedges and Rushes
Lurid Sedge (3) - Cdrex lurida
Fringed Sedge (3) - Cbrex Crihita
Woolgrass (3) - Sairp#s cyper. inus
Soft Rush (3) Juncos effuses
1 Plants that, once established*, can withstand considerable drought ( 3-4
weeks without rainfall)
2 Plants that grow best in moist to average soils and will only tolerate short
periods (1-2 days) of flooding. ti
3 Plants that will tolerate longer periods of flooding (3-5 days), but will also
grow in moist to average soils. i
i
*Establishment usually takes 1-2 years for trees and shrubs and 1 year for perennials.
For more detailed information and images of each plant, visit the Plant
Fact Sheets available on NCSU's Urban'.Horticulture website:
www. ncstate-pla'nts.net
NCSTATE UNIVERSITY
A&T STATE UNI MrrY
COOPERATIVE
EXTENSION
Helping People Pat Knowledge to Work

Oval Rain Garden
1 -1 small tree or tree form shrub
2 - 3 perennials or ornamental grasses
3 - 6 small perennials or groundcovers
4 - 3 perennials
5 - 3 large perennials or ornamental grasses
6 - 3 small shrubs
• Each square equals one square foot
• For more detailed information and images for each plant,
see the Plant Fact Sheets available on NCSU's Urban
Horticulture Website: www.ncstate-plants.net
• Prepared by Charlotte Glen, Urban Horticulture Agent,
NC Cooperative Extension - New Hanover County Center

1 - Small tree or large shrub:
,5alix n?ra -P)lac-L willow
00"W I

4 - Perennial:
EuPatorium fi5tulosum --
joe-pye weed
2 -- 5hru6:
Callicar a americana -
b ut? e rr?
5 -- Perennial:
Kuodbeckia fuSioda -Conef lower
3 -- Wet 5hru6:
/fex verticilla to -Win to rb e rr?
7-r Grass:
fanicum virSatum --
5witchgrass
ounta k , rJ cn
,% ? ? ' r+
M'op
1 _ Small tree :
E ododendron maximum
- Kosekay
2jhrub:
'Cuonymus americanus---
Hearts-a-kustin'
3 - Wet Shrub:
Ktiododendron periclymenoides -
Finxter azalea
5 -r Perennial:
0smunda reSafis ----
Ko?al Fern
`F- Perennial:
Im,pa Liens capensis ---
jewel weed
(S?n?cthen I cta-
,Ah
UK tlL) LO -f ICLk-eK? )
6 -- Wet Perennial:
1 obdia cardindis -
Cardinal flower
7-r Grass:
Chasmanthium fatifofium ---
Fiver oats
Attractive, functional
Stormwater management
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NCCOOPERATWE
®C'I'?N8[ON
98 E. Morgan Street
Brevard, NC 28712
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
http://transylvania.ces.ncsu.edu/
M1. ,
Table of Contents
3. Stormwater
4. Raingardens
5. The Transylvania County Library Raingarden
6. Backyard Raingarden Construction
8. Sizing Chart for Raingardens
9. NC Native Plants Suitable for Raingardens
10. Wetland Gardens
11. NC Native Plants Suitable for Wetland Gardens"
12. For more information

Stormwater
Developed acreage in North Carolina increased 88.1% over a fifteen
year period from 1982-1997. As development occurs, extensive surface
area previously covered with vegetation is replaced by impervious sur-
faces, and the area's hydrology is altered.
When rain falls on natural areas such as a forest or meadow it is
slowed down, filtered by soil and plants, and allowed to soak back into
the ground. When rain falls on impervious surfaces like rooftops, roads,
and parking lots, it does not soak into the ground and stormwater runoff is •
created. As stormwater flows across impervious surfaces, it picks up pol-
lutants and excess heat. During large rainfall events stormwater runoff
can cause flooding. It is estimated that 70% of pollution in streams, lakes •
and rivers originates in stormwater runoff.
Stormwater runoff affects our local streams and rivers. The heating
of stormwater can negatively impact aquatic ecosystems, causing loss of
habitat, especially in areas of high elevation featuring cold water trout
streams. Eroded soil and sediment, nitrogen and phosphorous rich nutri-
ents, and toxic chemicals in stormwater have adverse effects on aquatic
life and riparian vegetation, as well as our fresh water supply. There are
several methods of dealing with stormwater, such as filters, grassy
swales, and bioretention areas, i.e. raingardens and stormwater wetlands.
We can't stop developmental growth, but we can lessen future impact on
our land and water by the choices we make today.

Common
Stormwater
Pollutants
Automobile fluids
(oil, gasoline, anti-
freeze, etc.
Pesticides and fertil-
izers
Pet waste
Bacteria
Atmospheric Nitrate
and Ammonium
Litter
Sediment
Grass Clippings,
Leaves, and Other
Yard Wastes
3
Raingardens
Raingardens are an attractive, functional stormwatertmanagement technique. The mix of compost,
sand, soil, and native plants captures, cools and filters runoff before it enters our streams and rivers.
Raingardens are placed between stormwater runoff sources (roofs, driveways, parking lots) and runoff
destinations (storm drains, streams, and lakes). Backyard raingardens are a fun and inexpensive way
to improve water quality and enhance the beauty of your,yard or business.
• Raingardens temporally hold, filter and cool
stormwater runoff.
• Complex processes, such as ion
exchange, volitization, adsorbtion, and
evapotranspiration, remove pollutants
from stormwater.
• Microorganisms in raingardens breakdown pol-
lutants, such as petroleum based solvents.
• Levels of heavy metals, such as zinc and cop-
per, are significantly reduced in runoff that is
treated by a raingarden.
• Infiltration in raingardens reduces the
velocity of runoff and prevents flooding.
• Raingardens provide a suitable habitat for many
different types of organisms.
• Raingardens enhance the beauty and value of
your business or residence
4
Transylvania County Public Library Raingarden
1. River Oats
2. Inkberry Holly
3. Cardinal Flower
4. Blue Flag/ Iris Versicolor
5. Stokes Aster
6. Garden Phlox (Tracy's Treasure)
7. Chokeberry
8. False Indigo
9. Red Twig Dog Wood
10. St. John's Wort
11. Rose Mallow
12. Elderberry
13. Gay Feather
14. Creeping Phlox
15. American Plum
16. Black-Eyed Susan
17. Fringe Tree
18. Clethera (Sixteen Candles)
19. Golden Rod (Fireworks)
20. Spotted Joe Pye Weed
21. Bee Balm
22. Green anti Gold'
23. Garden Phlox (David)
24. Paw Paw Tree
25. American Beauty Berry
26. Sweet Shrub
27. Garden Phlox (Ping Pong)
28. Witch Hazel
This Raingarden is one of two located at the Transylvania
County Public Library. It filters and cools runoff from the
parking lot and roof. Here you can see the locations of native
plantings within the raingarden.
ti
o
5
Backyard Rafhgarden
Construction
Raingardens should be installed after other construction is completed around your
home. Sediment from construction sites can collect and settle in raingardens, reducing in-
filtration, and may result in damage to plants.
1. Select a location:
• When it rains, observe where the water goes. Where does your driveway runoff go? Where
does your roof runoff go?
• Select a location downslope from your property's runoff sources.
• Raingardens should be at least 10 ft. from the fouq'dation of your home.
• At least 25 ft. from septic system drainfield.
• Not within 25 ft. of a well head.
• An ideal location for a rain garden is in full to partial sun
• The water table should be at least 2 ft. below the s}trface.
2.. Observe soil permeability:
• Well drained sandy soils are ideal for rain gardens:
• Dig a 1 ft. hole at the proposed rain garden site. Fill the hole with water or observe it after a
heavy rain. If the hole still contains water after 48 hrs, the soil is impermeable, and this is
not a good location for a rain garden. Try another location, or consider creating a wetland
garden. * pg 10
3. Determine the size of your raingarden:
• Estimate the area of impervious surfaces draining to the raingarden. This includes roofs,
sidewalks and driveways.
1. Determine the area of your roof.
2. Estimate the percentage of runoff that drains`:from the roof to your proposed
raingarden location
3. Multiply the area of your roof by the percentage of runoff drained to the raingarden
location. For example, If your roofs area is 3000 ft', and 75 percent of your roof's
runoff is drained to the raingarden location, then [ 3000 X .75 ] = 2250. This is the
drainage area of your roof.
4. Add the drainage area of your roof to the total area of other impervious surfaces, such
as sidewalks and driveways. For example, we have 2250 ft2 for the roof, and if you
have a 1000 ft2 driveway, and a 800 ft2 walling path; then:
2250ft2 + l 000ft2 + 800ft2 = 4050ft2.
The total drainage area to your raingarden site is 4050 ft'.
5. Divide the total impermeabie drainage area by 20, to get an estimate of the
raingarden's area requirements for a depth of6 inches. For a shallower depth of 3
inches, divide this total area by 10. * for help=see sizing chart on page 8.
N
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4. Sketch a design:
Take measurements, and stake or flag the area
Sketch out, to scale, the approximate size and shape of your raingarden
• Include direction of runoff flow, existing features, and plant placement in your sketch.
5. Begin construction:
• The Raingarden should be dug 3" to 6" deep (depending on the area requirement estimated in step 3), with
a slight depression in the center
The dugout soil can be used to make a berm at the down slope end of your raingarden.
* see illustration.
• The Raingardens ideal soil mixture should consist of approximately
50-60% sand,
20-30% topsoil, and
20-30% compost.
• Once a location is selected, you may decide to send additional water to this site. Flexible plastic pipe can
be used to direct water from downspouts and collecting areas to the rain garden.
6. Planting:
It is important to select plants that will tolerate fluctuating levels of soil moisture. Raingardens that
contain sandy soil rarely hold water for more than a few hours. Loamy or silty soils can pond water for 1-2
days. For best results use container-grown plants. Seeds tend to get washed out in raingardens, and have a hard
time establishing themselves.
Native plants are best; they are well adapted to the climate and insects that live in your area. It is less likely
that fertilizers and pesticides will be necessary, and using less or no fertilizers and pesticides at all benefits
water quality.
• There will most likely be varying degrees:of wetness within your raingarden. Plant species that can tolerate
a couple days of flooding should be planted in the deepest part of your raingarden, where water is most
likely to pool. Plants that can't tolerate flooding as well should be placed around the edges or shallow areas
of your raingarden.
• A list of native plants suitable for raingardens can be found on page 9.
7. Mulching:
Apply 2-3" of hardwood mulch. Lighter mulches will tend to float, so avoid pine bark and pine straw
mulches. Mulch is important in pollution removal, rhaintaining soil moisture, and in preventing erosion.
The Berm should be covered with mulch or grass to prevent erosion.
7
1

Di; ection of water tlow berm
3

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NC Native Plants Suitable for Raingardens
For moist soils: plant in the deepest parts of your raingarden
Willows/ Salix species
Cinnamon Fern/ Osmunda cinnamomea
Swamp Rose/ Rosa palustris
Washington/ Hawthorn Crataegus phaenopyrum
Native Brake-Cane/ Arundinaria gigantea
Silky Dogwood/ Cornus amomum
Buttonbush/ Cephalanthus occidentalis
Sweetbay Magnolia/ Magnolia virginiana
For intermediate soils:
Red Maple/ Acer rubrum
Cherry birch/ Betula lenta
Persimmon/ Diospyros virginiana
Lady Fern/ Athyrium felix femina
Green and Gold/ Chrysongonum virginianum
Black cherry/ Prunus serotina
Garden Phlox/ Phlox paniculata
Fringe Tree/ Chionanthus virginicus
For Dry Soils: plant in shallow areas or your raingarden or on berm
Silverbell/ Halesia Carolina
White basswood/ Tilia heterophylla
Pagoda Dogwood/ Cornus alternifolia
American Holly/ Ilex opaca
American Hazelnut/ Corylus americana
Blueberry/ Vaccinium ashei
False Indigo/ Baptisia species
Panic Grass/ Panicum virgatum
I car snore infi)rnritioii oii hunt scicction visit
httC??%i?? ?? «.h?u?.nc?su.?•du-t?±niurain?arden/plailts.htn?

9
Wetland Garden
A wetland garden works like a raingarden, providing habitat,for plants and organisms, while
treating stormwater runoff. Wetland gardens hold water longer than rain gardens, and feature plants
that thrive in wet conditions.* A list of native plant species suitable for wetland gardens can be
found on page 11.
One common concern when it comes to wetland gardens is mosquito infestation. A wetland garden
may actually reduce mosquito populations in your area. Wetland gardens provide habitat for natural
predators of mosquitoes, such as birds, frogs and other insects. Wetland gardens reduce flooding in
adjacent areas. Adjacent areas that flood periodically may serve as habitat for mosquitoes, but not for
predators of mosquitoes.
Encephalitis, is associated with the tree-hole mosquito. Tree-hole mosquitoes lay their eggs in
small pools of water, and in their natural environment these pools may be found in the small holes of
trees. In a manmade environment tree-hole mosquitoes 4, ilize small pools of water including bird-
baths, tires, and any small container holding stagnant water. The environment created by a wetland
garden is not likely to create a breeding ground for tree-hole mosquitoes, as the pool created is too
large. A wetland garden should not increase the risk of encephalitis around your home, and may have
the potential to reduce it.
Wetland Garden Construction
• Wetland gardens are best for relatively impermeable; soils:
• Wetland gardens should typically have a length to.wi lth ratio of 1.5:1, with the long axis
perpendicular to the direction of runoff flow.
• A depression should be dug, containing various depths between less than 6" to 18" or more.
A small sediment forebay, should be dug to capture the initial flow entering the pool from your
runoff sources. Sediment forebays typically have an area of approximately 10 % the total area of
the wetland garden. Sediment carried by runoff will be captured in the sediment forebay. Sediment
levels in the rest of the marsh will remain low, making maintenance easier.
10
NC Native Plants Suitable for Wetland Gardens
Cardinal flower Lobeliu curclinulis
Marsh pink Sabatia species
Seashore mallow Kosteletskya virginica
Blue flag/ Iris versicolor
Blue lobelia/ Lobeliu species
Joe Pye weed/ Eupalorium fistulosum
Buttonbush/ Cephalanthus occidentalis
Elderberry/ Sambucus canadensis
Swamp milkweed/Asclepias incarnata
Bee Balm/ Nlonarda didivia
Spicebush/ Lindera benzoin
Pawpaw/ Asimina triloba
Carnivorous plants ( do best in sandy soils)
Yellow pitcher plant/ Sarracenia(lava
Sundew/ Drosera species
Purple pitcher plant/ Sarracenia purpurea
Venus Flytrap/ Dionaea muscipula
Butterwort/ Pinguicula species
See these Sites for more information
Backyard Raingardens
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/topic/raingarden/
Landscape plants for wet sites
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-646.html
Plants for wetlands and raingardens
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/copubs/env/water/O I 8/RaingardenPlantsBrochure.pdf
Urban Horticulture Website
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/consumer/itMex.html
Stormwater Wetland and Raingarden-Installation at The NC
Arboretum
http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/programs/extension/wqg/frenchbroad/stormwater_wetland.pdf
http://www.bae.ncsu. edu/programs/extension/wqg/frenchbroad/raingarden_tnca.pdf

12
Backyard Wetland I Backyard Conservation I Features I NRCS
Backyard Wetland
Wetlands filter excess pesticides and nutrients. Many plants and animals find a home in
wetlands.
In Your Backyard
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6KYAIt?
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A mini-wetland in your yard can provide many of the same benefits that natural wetlands offer. A mini-wetland can
replace the important natural functions of wetlands that may have been lost when your community was developed.
A wetland in your backyard will temporarily store, filter, and clean runoff water from your roof and lawn. It will
provide habitat for many interesting creatures--from butterflies and bees to salamanders, toads, frogs, and birds.
Most wetland plants do not require standing water to grow successfully, and will survive even in an area that appears
dry during most of the growing season.
If you have a naturally occurring wet spot in your yard, or a low swale or drainageway with heavy clay soils, you
easily can turn it into a wetland paradise. Even if you do not have a naturally wet spot, you can establish an area in
your yard to grow many of the beautiful plants associated with wetlands.
What Is a Wetland?
A wetland is simply any area where water covers the soil or keeps it saturated for at least two or three weeks during
the growing season. You will usually find them anywhere water accumulates at a rate faster than it drains away.
Some are inundated year-round while others only hold water for brief periods in the spring. Most wetlands are
covered with water for less than a month during the summer. Wetlands dominated by grasses, cattails, and similar
herbaceous vegetation are referred to as marshes, white wooded wetlands, dominated by shrubs and trees, are
called swamps.
The saturation of the soil limits the types of plants you.can grow to those with "wet feet." How long the soil is
saturated determines which wetland plants will grow best. There are many small wetland plants that grow quickly
when the soil is wet in the spring and disappear when the soil dries up. Species like cattails, bulrushes, jewelweed,
and the attractive cardinal flower do well where there are alternating wet and dry periods. These plants will survive
persistent flooding as long as most of the leaves are out of the water. Water lilies and pond weeds grow well in
permanently flooded ponds.
In your backyard, toads and tree frogs (spring peepers) will lay eggs and the pollywogs will mature where water only
lasts 3 or 4 weeks; other frogs need longer periods. Where you have permanent water, the bullfrog pollywogs and
small fish eliminate reproduction of most other frogs, toads, and salamanders. Mosquitoes will not survive in
wetlands that dry out in less than a week after a summer rain or in wetlands connected to a deeper pond that
supports small fish and large aquatic insects that feast on them.
Where to Put a Wetland
A natural depression or ditch that tends to stay wet is an ideal place to develop a wetland. Other areas with heavy
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G 4`
clay soils that drain slowly may also be suitable. Better drained sites mayxequire use of a plastic or other type of
liner. Of course, if you are building a backyard pond, as discussed in another tip sheet in this series, a shallow area
of saturated soil can be incorporated in the design. When selecting a site, consider:
1. Is the site away from your foundation, out buildings, existing landscaping that you want to maintain, or
neighboring properties that might be damaged by excessive moisture?
2. Would there be a safety concern for neighborhood children?
3. How will the site be integrated into your plan for maintendnce?
4. If you need supplemental water, is it readily available or can you use roof drainage?
5. If there is an existing wetland, check state and local wetland regulations before altering it.
6. Unless you completely own a ditch, check with local authorities before making any alterations. Be sure you
won't cause adjacent properties to flood.
Building a Wetland
Since wetlands refer to a variety of conditions, there Is a lot of potential for including wetland plants in your yard.
You may want a wetland that only stays wet for a short period after heavy rains or one that stays wet most of the
time. It depends on the site and your desires. Establishing a wetland in your yard may be as simple as planting
wetland plants in an existing wet area, or it may require the same effort needed to install a backyard pond.
Building a Wetland in an Existing Wet Area or Drainagpway
In some instances, all you need to do is stop mowing during dry period,?.,,Too often homeowners go to great lengths
to establish plants that are not adapted to the site or to modify the site, when it would be more effective to use
plants suited to the conditions. Numerous landscape plants are well adapted to wet conditions and will provide
beauty as well as wildlife habitat. Be sure to check the growth anh rooting characteristics of trees you want to plant.
Many wet soil tolerant trees have shallow root systems or brittle branches and must be planted a safe distance from
buildings.
Partially blocking a drainageway or small ditch to create your wetland by trapping storm water needs more planning.
Where a low berm less than a foot high will create a small wetland, planning is not complicated if:
• The drainage area above the berm Is small, generally less than an acre;
• There is adequate area for flood flows to go around and over the berm; and
• The soil contains a high percentage of clay.
For sites requiring a higher berm, and those with a larger watershed, you need engineering advice. For sites with
sandy soil or a lot of rocks, you also may need to install a plastic liner (described in the next section) under all or the
lower portion of your wetland.
To construct the wetland with a small berm to hold back water for a few days or weeks:
1. Put a stake in the center of the lowest portion of the drainageway`where you want the berm.
2. Using a level on a large board or string, place a stake where a level line reaches the ground on either side.
3. Using the same type of level, mark how far back water will be impounded at the top of the berm.
4. Remove any existing sod from an area about 4 feet wide along the line of the berm and over about half the
area that will be flooded.
5. Dig a trench about 1 foot deep along the center line of the berm and fill it with slightly damp heavy soil,
packed down firmly.
6. Build your berm about 4 feet wide at the bottom and 1 foot at the top. The center should be 4 to 6 inches
higher than the ends to allow for settling and to force water flowing over it around the ends, reducing the
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likelihood of erosion.
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7. Cover the compacted berm with purchased grass sod or the sod you originally removed from the area.
8. Plant wetland adapted plants in bands from the deepest areas to an area about six inches above the expected
high water level, selected according to the degree of soil saturation they require.
Building a Separate Wetland
You can create a wetland in any level area and make it suitable for most wetland plants by digging out a depression,
lining it with plastic, refilling it with soil, and adding water. After selecting the site, you should:
1. Using a hose or rope, lay out the shape of your wetland. An irregular shape will appear the most natural.
Sometimes a long narrow curving wetland will fit nicely into a landscape plan.
2. Excavate an area 1-1/2 to 2 feet deep. The sides should slope gently to the deepest area.
3. Put an inch of fine sand or lose soil in the bottom to prevent the plastic liner from being punctured by small
stones.
4. Line the depression with sheet plastic. Hold in place with heavy objects such as round stones. Or, install a
pre-formed pool liner or use a child's wading pool.
5. If you live in a region with heavy annual rainfall, puncture the liner in several places with pencil-sized holes
about halfway up the sides to allow slow drainage so the soil will not stay completely waterlogged for long
periods.
6. A. If you plan to grow common species of low maintenance plants adapted to moist soils in your area, fill the
depression with a mixture of soil and peat. A significant amount of peat will help retain moisture and allow for
aeration.
B. If you intend to grow true bog plants that require acidic soils saturated with water most of the year, fill the
area with a mixture of half peat and half humus. Also, you should fill the lower half of the depression with pea
gravel or coarse sand to assure more even distribution of water. Burying a perforated pipe in the pea gravel
connected to an upright pipe fitted with a hose connection will help add water evenly to the bog.
7. Cover the edges of the plastic with soil to hide them and hold the liner in place.
Building a Wetland by a Backyard Pond
Putting a shallow wetland at one edge of your backyard pond will increase its value and attractiveness. If you are
using a pre-formed liner for your pond, you may want to build the wetland as described above, with the water level
slightly above the pond liner or the edge of the pond liner lowered a couple of inches to allow water to flow into the
pond. This design filters sediment and other contaminants out of the water coming off your lawn or roof through the
wetland before it enters the pond. The wetland area also protects fish and other aquatic life in the pond by removing
any chlorine from city tap water you use.
Establishing plants s
The plants you select for your wetland will depend on:
• Length of time the soil will be saturated or covered with water,
• Depth of the water,
• Amount of sunlight on the site,
• Climate,
• Soil pH, and
• Size of the wetland.
Select plants that are hardy for your area and provide the desired wildlife habitat and aesthetics. The species of
plants most common in other wetlands in your area witch similar flooding cycles will be easiest to grow and need the
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least maintenance.
Choosing and Establishing Plants for Ponds
To make part of your backyard like natural wetlands, use a mix of diverse plants. Most trees, shrubs, ferns, and
many other plants grow best in soils that are only saturated early in the growing season and after heavy rains.
Others, like the true bog plants, need almost continually saturated soil. Plants like water lilies need to be continually
flooded. Once established, plants like cattails will thrive in water a couple feet deep, but also in areas that are wet for
only short periods. However, most have a narrower tolerance range that may vary depending on where you live.
Always check with your local nursery or other expert before making final decisions on what varieties to plant. Plants
should always be purchased from a reliable source.
Native Trees Tolerant of Wet Soils
• Red and silver maple (Acer rubrum, A. saccarinum)
• River birch (eetula nigra)
• Catalpa spp.
• Ash (Fraxinus spp.)
• Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)
• Swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor)
• Sycamores (Platanus spp.)
Native Shrubs Tolerant of Wet Soils
• Red osier dogwood (Corpus sericea)
• Leatherwood (Dirca palustris)
• Winterberry (Ilex verticillata)
• Inkberry (Ilex glabra)
• Pussy willow (Salix discolor)
• Shrubby cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa)
Native Herbaceous and Flowering Plants for Sunny Moist or Boggy Conditions
• Cattails (Typhus spp.)
• Joe-Pye weed (Eupatorium maculatum)
• Great blue lobelia (Lobelia siphilitica)
• Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis)
• Blue flag iris (Iris versicolor)
• Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum)
• Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
• Goldenrods (Solidago spp.)
• Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris)
• Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata)
• Gentian spp.
Native Herbaceous and Flowering Plants for Shady Moist or, Boggy Conditions

• Bee balm (Monarda didyma)
• Arrowhead (Sagittaris latifolia)
• False hellebore (Veratrum viride)
• Turtlehead (Chelone spp.)
• Skunk cabbage (Symplocarpus foetidus)
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Y • Royal fern (Osmunda regalis)
• Netted chain fern (Woodwardia areolata)
• Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
• Cinnamon fern (Osmunda cinnamonmea)
• Shield ferns (Dropteris spp.)
• Lady ferns (Athyrium spp.)
True Bog Plants Requiring Low pH and Sun
• Sundews (Drosera spp.)
• Butterworts (Pinguicula spp.)
• Pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.)
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Numerous other native wetland species are available in most areas. There are also many species that have been
naturalized in North America and are often considered native plants. Unfortunately, some of these species are more
competitive and have become invasive, crowding out the native species that provide habitat for indigenous wildlife.
Safety
Locate the backyard wetland where it is unlikely to attract unattended children. Check local safety ordinances and
building ordinances for restrictions and permits.
On the Farm
In the rural landscape, wetlands filter chemicals, excess nutrients, and sediment from flowing water, protecting
streams and drinking water sources. They also provide habitat for many wildlife species.
Across the country, many farmers voluntarily return formerly drained wetlands in crop fields and pasture to fully
functioning wetlands. Many of these acres were marginally productive and returning them to wetlands provides
significant ecological, economic, water purification, and recreational benefits.
Many farmers enhance their wetlands with nesting structures for ducks and other birds, put in plants and annual
seeding to provide winter food and cover for wildlife, and establish native wildflowers to make the landscape more
attractive.
More About Backyard Conservation
The Natural Resources Conservation Service, National Association of Conservation Districts, and Wildlife Habitat
Council encourage you to sign up in the "Backyard Conservation" program. To participate, use some of the
conservation practices in your backyard that are showcased in this series of tip sheets -- tree planting, wildlife
habitat, backyard pond, backyard wetland, composting, mulching, nutrient management, terracing, water
conservation, and pest management. Then, simply fill in the Backyard Conservation customer response card, send a
Backyard e-mail request to landcare(tusda.gov, or call 1-888-LANDCARE,
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Daniel Boone Native Gardens - Home
Page 1 of 1
Home Weddings Bloom Calendar Gallery Events Contribute Contact Directions
Welcome to the Daniel Boone Native Gardens
The Daniel Boone Native Gardens, located near downtown Boone, N.C., contain an
outstanding collection of native Appalachian trees, shrubs, and wildflowers. Hundreds
of plant varieties provide a progression of blooms throughout the growing season.
Opened in 1966, the three-acre Daniel Boone Native Gardens were an educational
and conservation effort to nurture rare or endangered Appalachian plant species.
A project of the Garden Club of N.C., Inc., these public gardens comprise a bog
garden, fern garden, rhododendron grove, rock garden, rock wishing well, vine-
covered arbor, pond alongside the historic Squire Boone Cabin, and several grand
vistas. Wrought-iron gates at the entrance were made by a descendant of Daniel
Boone, who hunted in the area.
Hours and Fees
The gardens are open daily, May 1 through October. Hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., with
extended hours during Horn in the West outdoor drama season. Admission is $2, ages
16 and up. Dogs are not permitted, except service animals.
Group tours can be provided, and the gardens are available for weddings and other
events. Please email Daniel Boone Gardens for information.
Our Site Is Currently Under Construction
Check back soon for updates!
Please feel free to contact us for more information.
E-mail: Daniel Boone Gardens I Phone: [phone] Write: P.O. Box 1705, Boone NC 28607
Daniel Boone Native Gardens
651 Horn in the West Drive, Boone, NC
Hosted by KSPCS
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Daniel Boone Native Gardens - Home
Page 1 of 2
Home Weddings Bloom Calendar Gallery Events Contribute Contact Directions
Bloom Calendar March-April I May-June I July-August I September-October
March - April
Skunk cabbage Dogwood
Trout lily Redbud
Claytonia Mayapple
Bloodroot Jack in the pulpit
Wood anemones Rhododendron
Wild violets Cherry trees
Teaberry Virginia bluebell
Wild ginger Bluet
Hepatica Wild columbine
Serviceberry Cutleaf toothwort
Silver bell tree False Solomon's seal
May - June
Bleeding heart Foam flower
Showy orchis Turkey's beard
Squirrel corn Merrybells
Dutchman's breeches Solomon's seal
Shooting star Coral bells
Amsonia Carolina rose
Wild iris Mayapple
Ladyslippers Yucca
Flame azalea Cinnamon fern
Rhododendron Pitcher plant
Shortia Trillums
Columbine Mock strawberry
Goatsbeard Ox-eye daisy
Mountain magnolia Stonecrop
Firepink Squaw root
Liatris Fringe tree
July - August
Purple cone flower Cardinal flower
New England Asters Old-fashioned hollyhock
Clematis Milkweed
Fairy bells Horse nettle
Lobelia
Indian pipes
Purple fringed orchis eweed
Sweet azalea Bon
eseoneset
Turks cap lilies Virgin's bower
Malva
Swamp mallow
Bee balm
Featherbells
Ladies tresses
Evening primrose
Galax Wild geranium
vine
Trumpet
Skullcap
Sunflowers Nightshade
Jerusalem artichoke Spiderwort
Rhododendron
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Daniel Boone Native Gardens - Home
September - October
Rhododendron
Goldenrod
Stewartia
Witch hazel
Devil's Walking Stick
New England asters
Clematis
Turtlehead
Daniel Boone Native Gardens
651 Horn in the West Drive, Boone, NC
Hosted by KSPCS
Ironweed
Joe Pye weed
Poke
Jewelweed (Touch-me-not)
Stiff gentian
Jerusalem artichoke
Sourwood tree
Page 2 of 2
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