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HomeMy WebLinkAboutashevilleNC1903SOIL SURVEY OF THE ASHEVILLE AREA, NORTH CAROLINA. By J. E. LAPHAM and F. N. MEEKER. LOCATION AND BOUNDARIES OF THE AREA. The area surveyed is the southern half of the Asheville quadrangle, United States Geological Survey, and comprises about 500 square miles. It is situated between 820 30' and 831 west longitude and 350 30' and 351 45' north latitude. Of this area Buncombe County con- stitutes about one-half, about 40 square miles lie in the southern part of Madison County, and the remainder in Haywood County. The northwestern edge of the map approaches to within 2 or 3 miles of the Tennessee line. Asheville is in about the same latitude as Mem- FIG. 10.—Sketch map showing location of the Asheville area, North Carolina. phis, Tenn., and is nearly due south of Cleveland. It is about 400 miles inland from the Atlantic Ocean and about 270 miles by rail from Raleigh, the capital of the State. HISTORY OF SETTLEMENT AND AGRICULTURAL DEVELOPMENT. The first settlements in the Asheville area were made about one hundred and twenty years ago, the country having been previously occupied by the Cherokee Indians. Though a little corn, tobacco, and a few pumpkins were grown here and there by the Indians, they lived mainly upon fish and game, supplemented by the native nuts, wild 279 280 FIELD OPERATIONS OF THE BUREAU OF SOILS, 1903. fruits, and berries, which grew abundantly in this region. Save for occasional outbreaks they were on fairly friendly terms with the white settlers. The earliest pioneers settled along the creeks and rivers and began tilling the richer and more easily cultivated bottom lands. Rye and oats were the first grain crops sown; afterwards wheat was more important, and later corn became the principal product. The virgin soils produced well, game was then abundant, and the simple needs of the settlers comparatively easily supplied. Except for their isola- tion and the difficulties of transportation and communication with the outside world, their hardships were less than those suffered by pio- neers in some of the more northern latitudes. These pioneers were mainly from Virginia, and the settlement of this part of the country was of slow growth. North Carolina was early divided into three counties —Albemarle, Bath, and Clarendon — and each county subdivided into precincts. Clarendon consisted of only one precinct —New Hanover —and con4prised all of the western part of the State, including Tennessee. In 1738 this division into pre- cincts was abolished and the precincts called counties. Buncombe County was formed in 1791 from Burke and Rutherford counties, formerly a part of Rowan County; and from Buncombe County, Haywood, and Madison counties were formed in 1808 and 1850, respectively. The population and crop production increased, and in 1850 Bun- combe and Haywood counties contained about 20,000 inhabitants and grew 363,611 bushels of corn, 38,462 bushels of wheat,104,807 bushels of oats, and 25,247 pounds .of tobacco. After the war of 1861 the growing of tobacco became quite an important industry. A part of the product was marketed at Asheville, though many of the larger growers sold on the Richmond and Lynchburg, Va., markets and at Greensboro and Durham, N. C. The height of this industry was reached in 1870, when the prices began to decline and the cultivation to fall off, until at the present time the acreage devoted to this crop is relatively small. CLIMATE. The following climatological data are drawn from the records of the Weather Bureau. The official weather observatory has only been established at Asheville within the last two years, and the tables and summaries are mainly made up from records of voluntary observers. These records were quite continuous from 1868 to 1879 and from 1889 to 1897. The climate of the area is characterized by light annual precipita- tion compared with the remainder of the mountain portion of North Carolina. There is a large proportion of bright days and a compara- SOIL SURVEY OF ASHEVILLE AREA, NORTH CAROLINA. 281 tive absence of disagreeable or destructive winds. The mean annual precipitation for the western portion of the State is 53 inches, while that for the vicinity of Asheville is but 43 inches, 41 per cent of which occurs in the months of March, June, July, and August. The average annual precipitation at Waynesville, situated just outside the south- west corner of the area, is somewhat greater. The mean annual temperature is 54.60 F., the warmest month being July, with a mean of 720 F., and the coldest January, with 37.90 F. The three winter months are nearly alike in temperature. The highest monthly mean temperature ever recorded at Asheville was 76.8, in June, 1876, and the lowest mean was 27.2, in January, 1897. * * * The highest temperature observed was 95°F., on September15,1897, and the lowest —9°F., January 16,1893. * * * Below zero temperature may occur in January, February, and December, but generally only during severe cold winters.a A five-year record gives the annual snowfall as 16.4 inches, which is stated to be much above the normal. The average date of the last killing frost of spring is April 21, and the first killing frost of autumn October 16. The relative humidity is somewhat high, due mainly to the early morning fogs, which are quite prevalent during the summer season. These do not occur to any considerable extent away from the river valleys, and are generally dissipated early in the day. The prevailing direction of the wind in the summer is southwest, and in winter northeast. Normal monthly and annual temperature and precipitation. Ashev:.:e, N.C. ----i-- Asheville, N.C. Month. Month. Temper- ature. Precipi- tation. Temper- ature, Precipi- tation. OF. Inches. OF. Inches. January ...................... 37.9 .8.04 August....................... 70.6 4.63 February ..................... 89.7 3.57 September...---......----... 64.9 2.95 March ........................ 45.9 4.14 October.......--......---.... 53.6 2.61 April ......................... 54.6 3.35 November .............--.... 46.5 2.76 May .......................... 62.6 3.62 December....--.......---.... 38.9 3.13 June .......................... 69.6 4.08 Year ................... 54.6I 42.72 July .......................... 72.0 4.84 PHYSIOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY. For convenience of reference the area mapped may be placed in two physiographic divisions, mountain and intermountain, the areas of the two divisions being about equal. In a general way the western half of the sheet will fall into the former division and the eastern portion into the latter. The northern two-thirds of the western half of the a Climatology of Asheville. C. F. von Hermann. BOIL SURVEY OF ASHEVILLE AREA, NORTH CAROLINA. 283 the coves and valleys and on other hillsides deciduous trees vary the coloring. The adjacent mountain ranges form quite abrupt margins to this intermountain or valley land, the boundaries being slightly obscured in some instances by outlying knobs and larger hills and ridges from 400 to 700 feet high. There is little really level land in these big valleys, the rolling topography being quite continuous, and as the descent of one hill is made the ascent of another is begun. A strip of level or only slightly sloping bottom land of from 50 to 100 yards wide borders many of the smaller streams. In some instances along the French Broad, Swannanoa, and Big Pigeon rivers and Hominy Creek these bottoms broaden to one-fourth mile and extend for a short distance along the streams. North of Asheville the French Broad River has almost no bottom land along it, the hills rising quite abruptly to a height of 200 or 300 feet for most of the distance to the northern edge of the map. In its course of 25 miles through the area .the French Broad River falls about 300 feet, and thus develops considerable water power, to utilize a part of which an electric power plant is at present being installed about 5 miles below Asheville. The current is quite rapid below Asheville and flows over a rough, rocky bed. Many of these rocks are loose, while others are in place and show a nearly vertical dip. The stream is from 80 to 120 yards in width. The Swannanoa River is one of the principal tributaries of the French Broad, and its waters are discharged just below Biltmore. Big Pigeon River, third in point of size, flows in a general northwesterly direction across the southwestern corner of the sheet, its length within the area being about 20 miles. On it are situated the towns of Canton and Clyde. It flows through a comparatively smooth and fertile, though narrow, agricultural valley to a point about 2 miles below Clyde, where it becomes hemmed in between precipitous hills and mountains. Hominy Creek rises in the eastern edge of Haywood County, and after break- ing through the Newfound Range flows the remaining 10 or 12 miles of its length to the French Broad River through a broad intermountain valley coalescing with that of the French Broad. The other important streams —Crabtree, Fines, Spring, Sandy Mush, and Turkey creeks — all have their sources in the higher mountains, and throughout the greater part of their lengths their valleys are narrow and belong to the truly mountainous type of country. The average elevation of these valleys is about 2,500 feet. Geologically, the area surveyed is entirely underlain by the older rocks, and from the gneisses, mica-schists, talcose-schists, and massive hornblendic rocks, together with numerous quartz veins, all of the soils are derived. Little granite is found within the area, and gneiss constitutes the greater proportion of the rock. From this, especially SOIL SURVEY OF ASHEVILLE AREA, NORTH CAROLINA. 285 Porters sand is almost exclusively confined to the northwestern part of the area, where it is found on the mountain ridges. It generally occupies only the tops of these ridges, and usually where the slope is not steep. It occurs typically developed upon the long, gently sloping buttresses and spurs of some of the larger mountains. The drainage is always good. The soil is principally derived from the coarse -grained gneisses, especially those containing considerable quartz and feldspar. The principal crops are corn, oats, and tobacco. Probably four - fifths of the tobacco grown in this section is raised on Porters sand. The yield is about 500 pounds to the acre. The commonest trees seen are white and red oak and chestnut. It is not a very strong or productive soil, and this fact, combined with its elevated and difficultly accessible position, renders it of limited agricultural value. The following table gives mechanical analyses of typical samples of fine earth of this soil: Mechanical analyses of Porters sand. o o o❑❑ d ❑� No. Locality. Description. o r C 0 8 N CV F d 0 y m � P. et. P. ct. P. ct. P. ct. P. ct. P. et. P. ct. P. ct. 9755 21 miles NE. of Graymediumsand, 0.38 6.68 13.56 10.60 28.06 19.76 15.66 5.58 Canto. 0 to 8 inches. 9757 11 miles N. of Gray mediumsand, .86 5.20 12.10 6.92 20.84 19.64 26.80 8.48 Crabtree. 0 to 9 inches. 9756 Subsoil of 9755.... Yellow sand, 8to 30 .13 4.44 24.02 16.62 28.46 13.54 7.76 4.9C inches. 9758 Subsoil of 9757.... Yellow sand, 9 to 33 4.80 12.80 8.80 23.72 17.60 23.82 8.4C 20 inches. PORTERS BANDY LOAM. The soil of the Porters sandy loam is a light gray to grayish -yellow sandy loam of a minimum depth of 7 inches and varying from that to 12 inches. The sand grains are irregular in shape and variable in size, and mixed with them is more or less silt and clay. Much of the sand in this type of soil is highly micaceous, and if persistently rubbed between the fingers a great deal of the grit disappears. Notwith- standing this and notwithstanding the fact, too, that a physical analysis shows the texture to be rather fine, the soil in the field has decidedly the appearance and tilling properties of a sandy loam. There is fre- quently from 5 to 20 per cent of irregular fragments of rock present 288 FIELD OPERATIONS OF THE BUREAU OF SOILS, 1903. densely shaded coves. It almost never occurs upon the southern slopes, except in a few instances where it has crept over from the north side of the highest ridges and extends for a short distance down upon the other side. In a few instances, in densely wooded coves, small local spots of it have been encountered upon the southern and eastern slopes, but these are never more than a few feet or rods in extent and have not been mapped. Though the lower boundary of the soil is usually found up the side of a mountain, in some instances it extends down nearly to the trough of the valley, where the angle of the slopes is sometimes not over 101. It ranges from this to 400 in the highest positions. Good drainage is thus always afforded. Only rarely have instances of soil washing been observed on this type. The Porters black loam is derived from various classes of the meta- morphic rocks, and there seems to be no particular kind to which may be traced a preponderating influence either in the origin of its physical characteristics or color. The color is due to the large amount of organic matter present, and it is in nowise influenced by the character of the rock from which the soil is derived —that is to say, a black hornblendic rock, for instance, is no more likely to yield Porters black loam than is a light gray gneiss. The only explanation which can be offered for the confinement of this black soil to the north side of a mountain is that upon that side, where there is more shade and less evaporation, vegetation is more rank and there is more vegetable d6bris. This decays more rapidly and completely than upon a slope exposed directly to the sunlight and yields a greater amount of the rich black vegetable mold. With the cutting off of the forest and the removal of the shady conditions under which the soil had its formation it might be expected that a change would gradually take place, the organic matter be used up, and the soil grow lighter in color. Available evi- dence, however, ,goes to show that these changes are very gradual, and probably a good many years might elapse without appreciable diminution of the productiveness of the soil. Comparatively little Porters black loam is at present in cultivation. Large areas of it are still in forest and a considerable proportion is devoted to pasture. After deadening the trees and harvesting two or three crops of corn these mountain pastures have been seeded to tim- othy, bluegrass, and redtop. These grasses grow luxuriantly, and wher_ sheep are not allowed to run furnish grazing for cattle for a number of years without renewal. Corn without any fertilization yields from 40 to 50 bushels to the acre. In some of the coves near the }:ighest mountains, and where the soil extends well down into the valleys, apples are grown successfully, though not extensively. Red, white, and chestnut oak grow abundantly, together with many large chestnut trees. On Spring Creek are seen a number of fine specimens of buckeye, some of theme exceeding a foot in diameter, SOIL SURVEY OF ASHEVILLE AREA, NORTH CAROLINA. 289 Upon no type of soil in the area have apples been so successfully grown as upon this black loam. Its peculiar adaptability to this fruit is not confined to this section, but is known and recognized in other localities in the State, and in the Valley of Virginia apple growing is successfully carried on upon the same soil, which the Bureau of Soils has recognized and mapped there. It is particularly suited to the Albemarle pippin in sheltered coves at not too great elevation. Besides apples, the soil is well adapted to most of the ordinary farm crops, and especially to corn and Irish potatoes. The following table gives the mechanical analyses of typical samples of this soil: Mechanical analyses of Porters black loam. s a s o a o C! p No. Locality. Description. q a o o y p y 4i � O 0 e Q P. ct. P. ct. A et. P. et. A et. P. et. P. et. P. ct. 9745 1# miles SW. of Dark brown loam, 2.66 6.14 10.80 6.06 16.70 14.68 20.70 24.96 Turnpike. 0 to 7 inches. 9747 3 miles NW. of Black flue loam, 0 10.18 7.32 8.88 4.46 10.38 11.84 22.70 84.60 Canto. to 8 inches. 9746 Subsoil of 9745..... Brown loam, 7 to 30 1.16 5.40 10.26 6.82 16.92 15.20 21.70 24.10 inches. 9748 Subsoil of 9747..... Brown loam, 8 to 30 2.46 3.08 7.26 4.70 11.20 13.10 26.10 33.90 inches. 11 NOTE. -Sample No. 9747 contained a large amount of woody or but partially decomposed material, which would account for the high organic matter content as compared with other samples. PORTERS LOAM. The soil of the Porters loam averages about 8 inches in depth and consists of a yellowish -gray loam containing varying amounts of fine sand and silt. While there is enough clay present in the first 6 inches to give moderate coherence to the soil, it nevertheless feels quite gritty between the fingers and is friable. In areas where the soil is deepest it sometimes has a gray appearance at the surface, but as a rule the surface soil has a characteristic yellowish cast, with reddish -yellow spots where the soil has been partially washed away and the subsoil exposed. A few small rock fragments are sometimes seen scattered about on the surface, but are not usually plentiful enough to be a. serious hindrance to cultivation. 'The upper few inches of the subsoil is a coherent yellowish clay loam, with a small percentage of fine sand intermixed. This usually grades at 18 inches into the heavy, adhesive red clay which is so characteristic of the area, and which underlies also the Porters clay. In the more mountainous parts of the area, however, this red clay is usually found at a greater depth, and sometimes the H. Doc. 746, 58-2-19 290 FIELD OPERATIONS OF THE BUREAU OF SOILS, 1.903. yellow loam persists to a depth of 30U inches or more. By reason of its coarser texture this type of soil yields more readily to cultivation than the Porters clay, and a mellow seed bed is prepared with less difficulty. Along the streams in the upper end of some of these mountain valleys are small, narrow areas of soil made up of a combination of the detrital material of the talus slope and the small amounts of sediment deposited by the streams themselves. These areas have been mapped as a phase of Porters loam, it being considered undesirable to include them with the meadow type. They usually have a slope of from 50 to 150, and the subsoil contains numerous irregular rock fragments. Such areas are all more or less subirrigated. Porters loam is found in all parts of the sheet, but is developed in larger and more continuous areas over the rolling valley lands of the intermountain part of the country. It usually also marks a strip on each side of the stream bottoms of the mountain valleys. Here it is sometimes found well up on the sides of the mountains, and in some instances even persists clear up to the top. It has a steeper slope on the mountains than in the rolling lands of the valleys of the French Broad River and Hominy Creek, where it occupies hillsides and hilltops alike. The drainage is always sufficient, and often there is considerable washing and gullying of the soil, leaving exposed the underlying red clay and rendering necessary the abandonment of occasional fields. The soil is derived from the weathering of the underlying gneisses and schists, the finer particles resulting from the decomposition of the feldspars, hornblende, etc., the more resistant siliceous minerals yield- ing the sand grains, the arrangement of the component materials then being effected by gravitation and the assorting power of percolating waters. Corn, wheat, and oats are the principal crops grown upon Porters loam. Wheat gives an average yield of 10 or 15 bushels to the acre, and corn about 25 bushels. On the heavier phases of the type grass does fairly well. Fruit is grown to some extent, and with fairly good success in favored locations. The principal forest growth is short - leaf and loblolly pine, white oak, and red oak, together with some maple and chestnut. The chinquapin forms a thick undergrowth in some localities. This is one of the best soils in the area for general agricultural pur- poses. Soils of this nature are suited to a wider variety of crops than are either the heavier clay soils or the sands and sandy loams. Por- ters loam can not be as highly recommended for wheat or grass as Porters clay, but for corn, oats, Irish potatoes, etc., the soil is fairly well adapted. It is believed that alfalfa would do well on some of the mountain creek bottom phase already referred to, where the subsoil is very porous and where the roots can penetrate to water. 294 FIELD OPERATIONS OF THE BUREAU OF BOILS, 1903. The Meadow is found in all parts of the area as a level strip border- ing both the large and small streams. Its continuity along the streams is oftentimes interrupted, the hills closing in and the valleys becoming so narrow that no room is left for sedimentary deposition. Its aver- age width. along the smaller streams is less- than 100 yards, though in a few instances in the wider valleys it broadens out to a quarter of a mile in width. A great part of the type is subject to overflow, and the drainage is deficient in many places. The soil is sedimentary in origin, the particles being washed down from the hills and mountains and deposited where the streams are broadest and the currents most sluggish. Corn and hay are the principal crops grown, the former yielding on an average about 30 bushels and the latter about 1J tons to the acre. The soil is held in high esteem, as well for its convenient physio- graphic position and ease of cultivation as for the natural renewal of its fertility by sedimentation. Prices out of all proportion to its agri- cultural value are sometimes paid for land of this character. Vegeta- bles are grown upon it to some extent, and it is also used for pasture land. ROCK OUTCROP. Certain areas, amounting in all to less than 1 per cent of the areas surveyed, are classed as Rock outcrop and shown in the map by suitable symbol. These embrace ledges of bare rock, areas of scant soil cover- ing, or areas so covered with stones and bowlders as to be unsuited to cultivated crops. AGRICULTURAL METHODS. Considering the isolation of many of the farming communities, it is not surprising that more improvements in agricultural methods have not been adopted. Some excuse, too, for the primitive implements and practices may be offered by reason of the rough and oftentimes stony character of much of the mountain land. The steep slopes and uneven surfaces which prevail in much of the mountain country are prohibitive of the use of grain drills, wheeled double cultivators, harvesters, and other implements which contribute so much to the easy and economical prosecution of the work on more level farms. A few reversible disk sulky plows are being used in some localities in the rolling intermountain country. They give very good results, and, with the same draft needed for the old-style walking plow, cut a deeper furrow. No instances are known where they have been tried upon the steep mountain slopes. It is likely that much of the plow- ing on the steepest slopes will for a long time continue to be done with the small plows drawn by one horse or an ox. These plows have reversible moldboards, so that they can be drawn back and forth along the lower edge of a field and the furrows always turned downhill. SOIL SURVEY OF ASHEVILLE AREA, NORTH CAROLINA. 295 Many of the farms are so steep that the crops are taken off on sleds, and, in fact, the ox sled is the only vehicle which some of the mountain farmers possess. The cultivated areas on the mountain farms are often quite limited in extent, and the crops correspondingly small in quantity. In thrash- ing seasons it is frequently necessary for a crew to haul their machine (a small, light one, the motive power to run which is furnished by horses —no portable engines being used) up rough and stony mountain roads for only two or three hours' work. The method of harvesting corn is to cut the top off the stalks above the ears, and, with the leaves left on, put them in shocks. The leaves left on the standing stalks are then stripped off, tied into small bundles, and hung over one of the standing stalks to cure. After a few days these leaves and top stalks are removed to shelter, and the butt stalks with the attached ears left standing in the field until the grain is thor- oughly dried out. It sometimes stands in this way for a month or six weeks, when the ears are pulled and carried to the crib, the husks being left on in many instances and removed only as the corn is wanted for feeding. While by the use of this method nearly the whole of the waste part of the stalk is left in the field and the edible portion preserved in more convenient form for feeding, the process appears tedious and expensive and its economy seems very doubtful. Little attention has been paid to crop rotation or fertilization in the mountain section, though these have been practiced to some extent by the more progressive farmers in the lower hill country, where the soils have been longer in cultivation. Heretofore the land has always been so cheap that when the soil became exhausted the field was left to grow up to pine and additional land cleared. AG4RICULTURAL CONDITIONS. The average mountain farmer produces little more than enough for home consumption. As the result of long years of isolation, the scar- city of money, and the difficulty of reaching the towns, he has learned to grow or manufacture at home things which the farmer in more accessible districts finds it more economical and convenient to pur- chase. A part of his clothing is made at home from the wool grown, carded, spun, and woven there; he manufactures brooms from home- grown broom corn; he raises sorghum and makes his own sirup; weaves his own baskets; substitutes gourds for tin dippers; and grows tobacco for his own use. The wants of the mountain farmer are sim- ple. Many of the things which people living in the more advanced and progressive sections regard as necessities, he looks upon as luxu- ries, and neither indulges in nor desires. The mountain farmer is fairly prosperous, judged by his own standards, and is generally con- tented with his lot. His intellectual enjoyments are few. He cares